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Lady Mo
Information that appears below is provided to assist the visitor to the Thao Suranaree (Lady Mo) shrine to pay respects in accordance with local customs.

Photos below taken 10 January 2007. For how to worship/pay respect at Lady Mo, see text following photos.


New sala for ceremonies and events.


Flower vendors were moved to this new structure behind Lady Mo.


Rotunda.


Rotunda


Man walkway toward Friendship Highway.


Looking toward rotunda/Friendship Highway/IT City.

Lady Mo History

An unofficial translaton by the Korat Post from material provided by the former governor's administration.

Translation of Thao Suranaree Biographical History
Thai Versions Provided by Nakhonratchasima Provincial Governor’s Office
August 25, 2004 & lost by the new incoming Administration who has remained silent about what happened to it.

English translation requested by October 25, 2004
Note: This is an unofficial translation, provided for informational purposes.

Section 1

Thao Suranaree, whose original name was Mo, was born in BE 2314. Her father’s name was Mr. Kim, her mother’s name was Mrs. Boonma. Thao Suranaree was a native of Nakhonratchasima by birth, and lived across from a temple in the heart of Nakhonratchasima (Wat Phranaraimaharat). In the year BE 2339, at age 25, Mo married Mr. Thongkham, of the provincial political affairs office. Subsequently Mr. Thongkham changed position to become the Nakhonratchasima city secretary of political affairs. It was a position considered to be equivalent to the rank of a noble. The people of Nakhonratchasima preferred to address him as ----- but he ---- and said to use “Phrayapalat.” The people called his wife Mo, then later Mae, and then finally Mae Mo. Currently she is called by the name Ya Mo, or Khun Ya, but the most popular name is Ya Mo.

Khun Ying Mo was a person of high intelligence. She also was an accomplished rider of both elephants and horses. Her favorite horse was black. Khun Ying Mo was a faithful follower of Buddhism, and liked taking her children and nephews and nieces to Wat Sakaew and Wat Isan regularly.

Section 2

Heroic Deeds of Khun Ying Mo

In BE 2369, Prince Anuwongseof Vientiene revolted and ledan army to seize Nakhonratchasima. At that time, Phrayasuriyadej was away on business to Khukhan, leaving behind only minor officials of the political affairs department. The Vientiene troops easily entered and seized Nakhonratchasima, overrunning the small number of defenders, including Khun Ying Mo, and herding them together to march back to Vientiene.

Khun Ying Mo sagaciously instilled morale and heart in the captive people of Nakhonratchasima . She did everything to make the Lao soldiers sympathetic to their Thai captives. She also found ways to delay the journey, such as claiming that captives were sick or that a cart had broken and needed repair. She was also holding secret talks. She asked [her captors] for axes to repair ‘broken’ carts, or to cut brush for firewood, etc., in order that the captives would have these tools when needed. Khun Ying Mo ordered that wood sticks be gathered and sharpened with axes, and that hoes be used as well in place of weapons [when the time arrived].

Upon reaching Thungsamrit, Khun Ying Mo, with a strategy in mind, asked her captors to allow the marchers to rest so that their sore muscles could recover from the long journey, and the Lao commanders allowed this. After setting up camp at Thunsamrit, Phrayahrom, Phrayapalat and Khun Ying Mo commanded that a group of young women lure the Lao soldiers outside the camp. Cooks remained in camp. At this time, male cooks separated into groups with a number of weapons. Junior political affairs department staff took the left and right flanks. Phrayapalat acted as commander of the main force. Khun Ying Mo acted as head of a group of skilled women in a reserve force. After some time passed, all those who had prepared rushed together at the same time, shouting and cheering, chopping at the Lao soldiers and scattering them in confusion. The Lao soldiers had no idea of the impending attack, and fell and died or scattered away. Thus the following verse was authored to honor the people of Nakhonratchasima, by Phraya Upakitsin:

In sudden rush, jabbing quickly
Men leading and women in reserve
Men charging and women pushing forward,
Together confronting, spreading
Women of stout heart --- Lao soldiers

Without spears they used axes,
Without swords they used sticks and clubs big and long,
They struck and lashed, annihilating the Lao soldiers
A stampede in the border jungle.

Verse Honoring the People of Nakhonratchasima

Section 3

After the battle was over, His Majesty the King conferred the title of Thao Suranaree on Khun Ying Mo, as well as conferring the further title of …. On Phrayapalat.

Six years after the battle had ended, in the year B.E. 2375, Thao Suranaree and Phrayapalat produced a book and presented it to Wat Isan as a way of commemorating the event. The book that was presented to the temple was titled, ….. made out of 20 palm leaves, written in Khmer and Bali and Thai script and with a vermillion design on gold leaf. Currently this ancient document is retained in the Nakhonratchasima Chalermphrakieti National Library. Head of the library’s documents section Mr. Somchai Faksuwan stated that Wat Isan donated the document to the National Library, and that there is clearly legible writing that reads Phayapalat Khun Ying Mo, produced upon the passing of the king, in B.E. 2375, Pii Marong….

When Thao Suranaree passed away n B.E. 2395 at age 71, her surviving husband Chaophrayamahisarathibodee enshrined her remains in a chedi he built at Wat Salaloi.

Section 4

Residence of Thao Suranaree: Testimony from foster children

From the memoirs of Acharn Ladawan Wannabun (Jitasombat) former director of the Nakhonratchasima Elementary school, fifth generation grandchild of Thao Suranaree, who stated that her mother’s ancestry, who investigated her roots, stated that her ancestry can be traced back to a foster child of Thao Suranaree, as Thao Suranaree had no children of her own. Thao Suranaree therefore took in a niece, by the name of Boonma, to raise as her own child. Boonma had one child, Nang Nuu Uan, who in turn married Phraphichaisongkranpol. They had one child, named Luang Sathonsapkit (Ud Chatawaraha), who married Mrs. Jaem. They had six children, as follows:

1. Mrs. Lukjan (Chatawaraha) who married Luang Rachathura (Inthornkamhaeng)
2. Mrs. Tongmee (Chatawaraha) who married Khunwannawutwijarn (Tongpaan Jitasombat)
3. Mr. Sorn Chatawaraha who married Mrs. Tongjeu maiden name Prayong
4. Mr. Sangiem Chatawaraha who married Mrs. Num
5. Mrs. Cheuyn (Chatawaraha) who married Luangphraphannittisart (Kree Sornsing)
6. Mr. Thanom Chatawaraha who married Mrs.Liap maiden name Maenaruj and Mrs. Tongkham. Mrs. Tongkham had the second child of Luangphraphannittisart who married Khunwannawutwijarn (Tongpaan Jitasombat) and they had six children, as follows:

1. Mr. Niphol Jitasombat, who married Mrs. Sri; they had one child.
2. Mrs. Jaras Maneesuwan, who married Mr. Anand Maneesuwan; they had three children.
3. Mr. Charoen Jitasombat
4. Mrs. Ladawan Wannabun who married veterinarian Suwn Wannabun – they had no children.
5. Miss Aree Jitasombat
6. N.A. Wijit Jitasombat who married Mrs. Uthaiwan – they had three children.

Acharn Ladawan Wannaboon wrote that she was raised by her aunt Jaem Chatawaraha because her mother had to travel with her father who traveled from province to province in government service. As she was being raised, her aunt told her details of Thao Suranaree, as follows…

Section 5

The residence of Thao Suranaree was the area and home where Luangphraphannittisart and Aunt Jaem lived, and which fell into the hands of the fifth generation descendents who now live in it. Originally the north property line was next to Wat Phranaraimaharat (Wat Klang). It was an area next to the wat pond where there was a betel garden for eating betel nut. Later authorities requested the property to build a market. It was called Phranarai Market. The reason that it was thus named was a Phranarai shrine standing, and later when Chompol Road had to be cut, land belonging to Khun Ying Mo – the north side which bordered the road, the southern side which bordered Mahadthai Road, the each which bordered a public way, and the west side which bordered private property. There were 7.1.57 rai total. According to the property deed issued to Luang Sathonsanprakit , son of Phraphichai Songkramphol and Mrs. Nuu Uan Phichaisongkramphol, in the property there was an earthen home, behind which was a well (the well is still there). The southern side adjacent to Mahadthai Road had a large pond named Maew Pond (now filled in), where Khun Ying Mo and her children/grandchildren celebrated Songkran.

Gold insignia of rank graciously conferred were cited as follows:

One gold tray for betel nuts
One gold betel cup
Three gold boxes vine design
Gold water pot
Gold basin
Betel envelop

Royal decorations received are as follows:

Gold hemmed sarong
Gold lined blouse
Sash blanket (sort of a shawl)
Gold lined breast cloth

Luang Sathonsappakit (Ud Chatawaraha) was a descendent who inherited the land, insignia and decorations. Aunt Jaem also willed separate items to Acharn Ladawan Warrabun and N.A. Wijin Jitasombat, comprising one gold tray, a set of two betel cups, three vine design inlaid gold boxes, one gold vine design inlaid envelop. N.A. Wijin Jitasombat received one gold water bowl, an assortment of decorations from the fourth great-grandchild named Chalaem, said to have seen a monk take the material and cut it into a bag which later became dilapidated.
Section 6

Construction of the Thao Suranaree Army Monument

The individual who sculpted the statue was named Mrs. Nim, wife of Phra Bunkhamborinak – whose name was also that of a four-way intersection, southerly one down from Lak Muang. It was called Bunkham Intersection, since his home was in the area. Those who were able to substantiate so stated that Mrs. Nim was the model for another statue of Thao Suranaree victory Monument, Miss Benjang Intsol. The reason for using Mrs. Nim as the model may have been because it was desired to have the statue with the image of a woman of Korat with [characteristics described] by her children who passed them up through Mo’s grandfather. As well, the craftsman’ skill was so as to have the statue appropriate to that of a heroine.

When Thao Suranaree died in BE 2395 (AD 1852), Chao Phraya Mahismathipodi had the body cremated and then built a chedi and placed the bones in it was Wat Sala Loi. Subsequently, Wat Salao Loi became dilapidated and lie in waste. Col? Phraya Sungsaenee, when at the time carrying the rank and title of Phraya Prasitisankul, retired form government service as Nakonratchasima provincial governor and built a temple at the former of Wat Pharanarai Maharat, NW, then ‘invited’ the mortuary urn of Thao Suranaree to be established there in BE 2443 (RS 117). Later, Phraya Kamtorn Phayaphit (Dis Intasolos?) and P.O.? Phrarerng Rukpatjamitr (Thong Rak Sanjob) considered and saw that the urn of Lady Mo bones at Wat Phranarai Maharat was decomposing, so they sought another appropriate place, that is, in the area of Chompol Gate. After installing the victory Monument, Thao Suranaree’s bones were placed in the monument foundation in BE 2488?. Since BE 2510, the monument’s foundation was raised. Mr. Sorn Chatasuaisha?, who was the fourth great—great grandchild, asked to be given some of Thao Suranaree’s bones, from the Nakhonratchasima provincial governor, to enshrine them n the chedi east of an old Buddhist chapel at Wat Salaloi. Currently Thao Suranaree’s bones are at Wal Salaloi and are paid constant respect by the people.

Section 7

Thao Suranaree and People’s Beliefs

People’s beliefs are acceptance of something existing in one’s consciousness, from a supernatural power that are either good or bad for the individual. Even though these supernatural beliefs may not be able to be proven true, people in society accept them and give respect, stand in awe, praise, prostrate in worship and entreat. Groups or people thus prostrate, such as to pray to heaven to enable oneself to share some of that supernatural power, giving rise to love, to pity, not being angry or not to do harm, as well as to gain some benefit. There are two levels of belief; that is, a part of religion that is a belief with a reason, that is able to explain what one is uncertain of - that is a guide including a guide for life. The second level of belief is local beliefs, that is, when investigated, are found to be practiced according to tradition. In regard to Thao Suranaree, the general public has the latter belief.

Thao Suranaree is a great heroine. Her bravery and ability, restraint, sacrifice for her nation was an inspiration at Tung Samrit. Her bravery is the pride of the people of Nakhonratchasima. This pride and impression makes her almost a family heroine. Thus the people of Korat are partly her children, partly her grandchildren, and have a connection with Thao Suranaree that is one of trust and fond memory. Therefore, when passing Thao Suranaree’s monument, everyone will wai in request for a blessing from her automatically. She is thus truly an important person belonging to all of the people.

Section 8

Thao Suranaree is a sacred and precious spirit of Nakhonratchasima, caring for, shielding, protecting, monitoring..so that her children and grandchildren will have happiness, progress, enjoy success, even if they are not native Koratians, she will give good luck to them as well.

With the installation of the Thao Suranaree monument in BE 2477? (1934) ceremonies were held commemorating, offering sacrifice, to her spirit in Heaven and devotion offerings, whereby it was decided that 23 March would be the official date of celebrating victory over the Vientiene enemy, and it has been so up to the present. These ceremonies changed ThaoSuranaree from being an ordinary person to being a saint. That the government and the people have incorporated these ceremonies has changed Thao Suranaree into a figure of worship, of prayer, giving success hoped for. As well, there is the redeeming of vows to her spirit through Phaleng Korat (the Korat Song), whereas the Korat Song has never diminished from the area of the Thao Suranaree victory monument.
The ceremony of Thao Suranaree’s sacrifice on 23 March 2477, is both a Buddhist and a Brahmin one. In regard to the Brahmin part, a sacred command is read. Part of it speaks of inviting her spirit to visit so that her children and grandchildren can offer sacrifices, and for her to receive these sacrifices. As well, she is called “Phra Mae Thaan,” which is a title of high esteem whereas [she is seen] as a guardian spirit, one [indicated in] the sacred command, “… upon the occasion where government officials, merchants, and the people have happiness, e jubilant, elated and inspired, rejoicing in devotion, joining to build her victory monument…to increase devotion to the fullest, as well as her prestige, and thus ask her to appear during the ceremony so that here descendents can offer sacrifices and pay respects. She is invited to visit and receive delicious food to enjoy, which includes swine head, auspicious rice, papaya salad, duck, chicken, shrimp and fish, minced fish and fruit, chow-chow, oiy bananas, as well as sweets – tomdaeng, tomkhao, as well as liquor, inviting her, Phra Mae Thaan, to visit andeat, and when she is finished eating the meal, to invoke a blessing that all of her descendents may continually receive more than ample possessions, be safe and devoid of disease that would disturb them, to experience happiness, prosperity, stability, many accomplishments, to live to a long life..”(Public Record 2540:90) whereby the ceremonies in offering respect to Thao Suranaree have become an annual event. Currently it causes those who take part in the ceremonies to believe that Thao Suranaree has the standing of a guardian saint that visits the Thao Suranaree victory monument in waiting to help, guard and oversee the city and the people so that they live in happiness, safety and are free from all harm.

Section 9

Ya Mo’s power always manifests itself to government officials and to the general public. For example, Mr. Damrong Ratanaphanich, while he was serving as governor of Nakhonratchasima,said that “The top of the Moon River Dam was about to collapse on 24 October 2533 (AD 1940). I asked Lady Mo for assistance in prevailing against the water so that the dam would not collapse. I asked fleeing villagers to seek higher ground, but then the dam did not collapse. I swear that it was a miracle of Thao Suranaree’s (or Lady Mo’s) spirit. Say that it was deep belief n Ya Mo.
There was an experience that should be written down and remembered: that is in 2529 (AD 1936), when I was serving as serving as provincial governor for Nakhonratchasima, I was on my way to accept a new post in the Justice Department in Bangkok. My wife Sritong had asked Ya Mo, please have me return to live in Korat (Nakhonratchasima Chamber of Commerce, 2534:3). That power [of Thao Suranaree] led to medals and figures to be made in her likeness, such as that the Chamber of Commerce has made in celebration of its tenth anniversary in 2534 (AD 1991). The medal ceremony was presided over by his Holiness the Supreme Patriarch Phrayansangworn. Suranaree Wittaya school made statues of Thao Suranaree 70 and 30 centimeters tall, as well as making gold plated medals, upon the occasion of the 75th anniversary of the school on BE 2543 (AD 2000).

Section 10

Thao Suranaree and The Korat Song

The Korat Song is a local song. It is only vocal with no instruments used. It is an extemporaneous format song with quick interchanges between men and women where they say that Thao Suranaree likes the Korat Song a great deal, that if anyone supplicants Thao Suranaree for a blessing, they will be able to receive one with the Korat Song. She is thus seen as one who injects breath into the Korat Song so that it lives on.

The figure of Thao Suranaree is a symbol of Nakhonratchasima. To install the Thao Suranaree foundation in 2577 (AD ), the citizens of Nakhonratchasima played a part in donating copper coins, each costing one sating [one Baht has 100 satangs) to be accumulated to cast the statue. Thus Nakhonratchasima province used the statue as a provincial symbol. In addition, there were also government officials and shop merchants - who brought the name and symbol in part of their names in worship with the belief that this would bring good luck – such as Suranaree Wittaya School, Suranaree Ice House, Suranaree Printing Company, Suranaree SarnSport Company, Ltd. as a few examples. In addition, the name and symbol appears on various products, such as in those produced that are connected with matters of the heart, that are able to communicate and cause understanding.

Thao Suranaree resides in memory, praise, great esteem, and worship of the people of Nakhonratchasima, because she is a brave heroine. Even though she is a woman, she was able to use her mind and her hands to solve the land’s crisis. She is thus a heart-rallying symbol for the people of Korat and of the nation.


A photo of Thao Suranaree (Lady Mo), taken from Klan Plaza Department Store.
Photo by the Korat Post.

Paying Homage to Thao Suranaree

The procedure is simple.
1. Proceed to the garland and bouquet vendors to the left side of the Lady Mo statue.
2. The vendors are used to people walking up so know what you need. But if you can speak any Thai, or even English, it's nice!
3. As of 31 March 2004, we were quoted a figure of 20 Baht for the garland (two garlands are available - a small one, or a larger one with a ribbon), and another 20 Baht for the lotus bouquet. You may be able to bargain, but maybe not. The total cost - 40 Baht - is slightly over $1 U.S. You don't need to buy both garlands, but if you do, the cost will be 60 Baht rather than 40 total.
4. The lotus bouquet consists of three joss sticks, a candle, a small gold leaf between two thin pieces of paper, and a lotus flower. 5. After making your purchases, proceed to the Lady Mo (Thao Suranaree) statue, removing your shoes either at the bottom of the stairs or if you prefer, up at the top just before approaching the statue.
6. Kneel in front of Thao Suranaree statue, and with the lotus bouquet between your hands, 'wai' with your hands even with the bottom of your nose, and dip your head slightly downward. During this 'wai,' you may make a wish if you choose, or ask for a blessing or special consideration for yourself, a family member or friend, group, etc. Alternatively, if you do not choose to make a wish, merely conclude the 'wai' and then stand.
7. Place the garland at or around/near the feet/base of the Lady Mo statue. 'Wai" once more if you wish.
8. Light the candle, generally by using one of the other burning candles that have already been placed. Use the flame from the candle to light the three joss sticks. When they are lit, you may wish to extinguish the open flame with a quick waving of the sticks. It is not considered appropriate to blow the flame out.
9. Place the candle nearby the others, and then place the joss sticks in the receptical with the others. You can then 'wai' once more.
10. Place the gold leaf over the bust of Lady Mo. You will notice it nearby, covered with gold leaf. The gold leaf is rather sticky to fingers. The best way to place the leaf is to remove one side of the protecting paper, and then press the gold leave over the surface of the bust, and vigorously press on the backside of the remaining paper until the leaf sticks.
11. If you wish, 'wai' once more, then you may leave.
12. If you wish, you can also 'wai' once more in front of Lady Mo where you first began the ceremony.

That's about it. There are a lot of photographers about. They advertise in Thai that photos cost 10 Baht each. You are, of course, free to take your own photos.


Two of the friendly vendors that supply garlands and flowers at the Lady Mo statue.

A friendly vendor sells a lotus bouquet to a customer.

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